Ziji

Three is not a crowd for the designers at Ziji.

Launched last spring as a skirt line, the first collection was a solo effort from Nansi Aluka. Katerina Gabbro joined the team for the second collection and Lisa Fabian made Ziji a trio for Spring 2006.

Aluka, an actress; architect Gabbro; and stylist Fabian share design, marketing, production, finance and business responsibilities for Los Angeles–based Ziji, which has evolved into a full contemporary collection.

The designers said the philosophy behind their creative process is defined by the essence of the Tibetan word Ziji, which means “confidence, shining out with dignity.” Casual elegance is key, with carefully balanced feminine silhouettes and a deconstructed approach to classic tailoring. The understated Spring palette is a mix of gray tones punctuated with lilac and pale yellow, and dressier pieces in black. Diaphanous babydoll tops in two different styles offer femininity and pair well with dressy, wide-leg trousers and flap-pocket shorts. While the wide-leg pant was a big hit for Ziji’s Spring line, the cigaretteleg trouser from the Fall ’06 collection will likely steal the limelight.

Overall, the new Fall line has more edge and funkiness, as exhibited in the wool-tweed, wrapcollar jacket and gray wool-lace sweater. The Fall hues are bolder than Spring—rich browns, navy, black and deep gray, with hints of turquoise and lush green. Fall fabrics include four-ply silk crepe, printed-silk charmeuse, wool tweed, wool gabardine and cashmere wool. The deep-V cardigan, fastened with two buttons at the waistband, has ruched detailing under the wrists. Carried over from the Spring line, the thin cardigan sweater is slinky and long—perfect for layering. Other highlights from the Fall collection include a black cashmere-wool wrap coat and silk buttonback blouse.

—Dena Smolek