Earl Jean

Hong Kong Fashion Week has just wrapped up, with the usual statements from the usual trade executives about how unusually wonderful the scene is in Asia.

Right. There are a few cool things out there, but by and large urban streets are either trapped in a Gucci/Prada time warp dating from the mid-'90s or off in some extreme nirvana of unwearable fabrics with designs that cut your circulation. In Asia, we consumers fall into three fashion types: the fast-forward fashion fiend, who knows what's up before the fashion editors; the trying-hard-but-not-quite-there; and the anti-establishment type, who couldn't care less about the whole scene.

For those of us who slip and slide among all three worlds, a few observations.

First, the buzz among the girls is Earl Jean. Well, it's not quite buzz yet, but it will be soon. Earl Jean makes jeans that are a bit difficult to find, as they are only sporadically available in Japan and Singapore and just a few people in Asia are familiar with the label.

This limited supply is what makes them cool, as the jeans themselves aren't overwhelmingly amazing. Unless you ask someone who owns a pair. She'll gush about the hip cut and comfortable Western styling that is all the rage among the twinkle set. It's very five minutes ago in L.A., but out here, it's definitely the new big thing. The folks at Fashion TV are believers in their practicality, so I have to think they must be on to something.

Earl Jean's website offers only a little titillation and zero information, so you are best off relying on word-of-mouth and the kindness of a friend in transit if you want to be the first in your office to get a pair. Next time your colleague or neighbor is heading over the Pacific, have them pop into Earl Jean in L.A. or Barneys in New York. Make sure to scribble your size down.

For the boys, the man of the next moment is David Mayer. He's tearing up Italy with retail stores in Milan, Rome, Napoli and farther afield to other European cities like London (soon). In addition, the company is franchising out to Japan and Singapore, where some of his styles are available in high-end department stores. Though his tops are a bit unbreathable, the line of pants, shoulder bags and shoes are destined for many closets around the region--again, if you can get them.

The look is very good for Asia: slim cuts, often in black with the discreet use of Velcro and other futuristic touches. This is another word-of-mouth brand: try rummaging through Singapore's Orchard Road boutiques or taking a quick weekend trip to Rome itself. Reports that Hong Kong's Joyce is picking up the line are unconfirmed, so I wouldn't dare repeat it here.

Otherwise, to keep up with fashionistas remember: George Meyer is out but we love Richard James. Franck Muller watches are chic. Philosophy is hot, but clothes from Alberta Ferretti (Philosophy's owner/designer with a different label) are a bit dated, so say our spies at this week's trunk show. Paul Smith: a no-no. Barney Cheng? On fire.

Now reverse all that, because hip is caught in a vicious cycle: trying to be hip is out (Prada/Gucci), so you have to be anti-hip (Earl and David Mayer). But trying to be anti-hip hip doesn't work, because as soon as anything is declared hot, it's instantly cold. Who said fashion is getting dull?